ALL NEW: Tips to Fight the Drought; Contact Us For Professional Lawn Maintenance; Terrific Pruning Guide; Spring Planting; Water Your Lawn Properly; Control Weeds & Crabgrass...plus some great offers!..all on one easy to read page.
Lawn Enforcement of North Georgia is a total lawn maintenance service with a commitment to excellence. We will customize a complete lawn care program tailored to the individual homeowner.
If you live in West Cobb, Cherokee, Bartow counties or the surrounding area of northwest Georgia including Acworth, Kennesaw, Woodstock, Canton, Cartersville, Adairsville, Euharlee, Emerson, Kingston, Taylorsville, Stilesboro and want the best looking lawn in your neighborhood contact us for a FREE estimate and consultation at 404-202-9001. That's owner JB Smith's cell number and weekend calls are OK.
Our complete program includes mowing, edging, trimming, weed control, fertilization plus shrubbery and plant care.
Call us at 404-202-9001, 770-607-8476 or e-mail jbsmith@lawn-enforcement.com with any questions you might have or for your FREE estimate ... again ask for JB Smith.
The Home & Garden updates may be of value to you homeowners. Please scroll down just a bit!
For additional information that may be helpful to your lawncare needs click on any of the items below or try our companion web-site www.lawn-enforcement.info that includes a great mosquito guide.
FOR MORE INFORMATION about Lawn Enforcement or a FREE estimate and consultation you can easily contact us by filling out the form below.
We will also be glad to answer any of your lawn care questions whether you are a customer or not.
CRABGRASS CONTROL
Once Crabgrass gets foothold in your lawn it can be
difficult to fend off (even with the best pre-emergent control products!)However it can be done!Here
is what we recommend!
The first step is to purchase our Crabgrass
Killer!This chemical is formulated to specifically attack
the roots of crabgrass!It is a
Post-emergence control for grassy weeds in Bermuda, zoysia and bluegrass lawns.It kills crabgrass, sandbur, dallisgrass, johnsongrass, goosegrass,
barnyardgrass and more.
This concentrate and will cover up to 4,000 square feet!For Blue Grass mix 2 oz (4 tablespoons) in 1 gallon of water to cover 200
sq. ft. Spot treat the areas that are infested with crabgrass.
The second step is critical for optimal application --
always mix a "Spreader Sticker" with the weed killing chemical.
The "spreader sticker" we recommend is called Wilt
Pruf. Mixing a spreader sticker (1 oz. per gallon) with a weed
killer will ensure the chemical spreads over the entire foliage area and then
sticks!As an added benefit, it
will keep an application from washing off during an unexpected spring rain
storm!
The weed should begin to wilt and brown within 5 days --
spot treat as needed every two weeks until you have killed off that nasty
crabgrass! It should not take more than 2-3 applications to wipe out event he
most mature crabgrass.
A couple of other notes: For best results, apply Crabgrass
Killer to the lawn in the morning (after dew has dried) on a sunny, calm day to
allow maximum absorption of the weed killer.Higher temperatures result in a quicker uptake of this product for faster
control.However, do not apply
Crabgrass Killer if temperatures exceed 90 degrees. If daytime temperatures are
expected to exceed 90 degrees, apply the product in early morning when it is
cooler.
The combination of these two products will take care of
your weed problem!
Just because you can't water shouldn't keep Georgians from gardening
this fall. You don't need a lot of water to have a lovely landscape.
The secret is in the soil.
"The idea is that soil kept uniformly moist for a long period
encourages the soil microorganisms to do all the work," said David
Berle, a horticulturist with the University of Georgia College of
Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
"Some of the best soil out there is in areas that have been under mulch
for years," he said. "I always tell people, if they have tough soil and
are not ready to plant, to go ahead and lay out the bed and mulch and
get the process started."
UGA horticulturist Tim Smalley said the best soil he's seen in his yard
was under a decomposing wood pile. But he adds that shading and root
competition have a great influence on what plants survive.
"I can see on campus that dogwoods in sun are scorched while those in
shade are doing better," he said. "I lost my fothergilla competing with
honey locust roots. But one in the shade of a pine looks unblemished
this year."
In a previous drought, he said, "I noticed that I lost plants that were
near water oaks. Last year on campus, the iteas in the sun away from
the red maple were holding their own, while those in the shade of the
red maples were probably suffering from root competition."
Now might be a good time to rethink landscapes and place trees such as
deep-rooted oaks and pines to provide shade to plants in the afternoon
or during the entire day. But beware of root competition.
"I lost all of my two- and three-year-old Hydrangea macrophyllas
when I was away for five weeks during the June drought this year," he
said. "However, one on the north side of the house with no root
competition and receiving the water from the air conditioner condensate
runoff is doing fine."
Using organic soil amendments and covering with wood chips and other
mulches are proving useful in helping plants survive. Hydrogels can
work wonders, too. These granules expand when soaked in water and can
slowly release the water to keep soil moist. Smalley thinks they do
more than that to improve the soil.
"In my research," he said, "hydrogel-amended annual beds always had
larger plants than the unamended beds. Much research has shown that
leaves of hydrogel plants are less water-stressed than those of
untreated plants.
"However," he said, "most scientists believe that the improved growth
and water relations are caused by increased root growth prompted by the
hydrogel products. Hydrogels continuously expand and contract with the
availability of water, and this expansion and contraction continuously
tills the soil and improves the soil environment for root growth."
Gardeners who feel at a loss when considering landscape needs this fall
aren't alone. Planning is paramount, and even the experts are seeing
things differently.
"I'm considering making some changes in my landscape plans," Berle
said. "I was already planning to swap out some plants. But this summer
has convinced me to be more mindful of plant and water needs."
We highly recommend a combination weed, feed and insecticide formula that you may have seen featured on TV. Professional Gardener John Perez shares his "recipe" to transform your lawn into the greenest grass of your dreams. Click Here! to learn more.
.Controlling rampant weeds can be hard to do, especially if your weeds are the strong and resilient type (think Dandy loins). Once a particular weed as set up shop in your lawn removing it can be a long and trying ordeal, and many people simply give up. This is when you see houses with front lawns that are more weed than lawn- your first reaction might be to frown upon the homeowner for keeping their property in a state of disrepair, but the reality is that they simply might not know what to do.
You're faced with a few decisions when you get an infestation: go buck wild with weed killer and spray the whole lawn; try “natural” techniques for removal; pick them out by hand; or spot spray and pray with the weed killer. Unfortunately there is never a single, universal solution.
Going crazy with the weed killer and coating your lawn in a thin layer of it often does more than you'd like. Chances are good that more than just the weeds will get killed when your spray- any flowerbeds, shrubs, and sometimes even the grass itself could go the way of the deceased. If any weed killer got caught in a breeze you may find yourself unintentionally spraying flowerbeds or trees.
Most “natural” methods for weed removal are painstakingly long and often don't work. If they do work, chances are good that you're ready to give up using them by the time they do. The same can be said about physically removing the weeds by hand- are you willing to get on your hands and knees twice a week and comb your lawn looking for new growth? Unless you've got nothing but time there are probably better things you can do with it.
The most practical solution is spot spraying your weeds as they appear. As opposed to performing one all-covering layer you would apply only where needed and in small amounts to avoid over spray (and consequently, overkill). Unless your entire lawn is blanketed in weeds this may be the best option for you.
You can buy small liquid sprayers that are light and get the job done. Make sure that you get a plastic one as some weed killers are corrosive and will slowly eat away at a metal container.
There are several different types of weed control- some are non invasive and only affect a certain type of leaf, whereas others are less discriminating and will kill anything with a small amount of chlorophyll in it. When you are shopping around for your herbicide make sure you read everything that is on the bottle- pay close attention to the manufacturers recommendations.
Though you are walking into this “war” completely armed, murdering your entire lawn by mistake doesn't leave you with a moral victory.
The Tuna-Can Effect – How To Properly Water Your Lawn
It's a little known secret that can dramatically change your lawns appearance and health. The secret creates a healthier lawn without any additional work, and, it's totally free. You can implement the secret as soon as you know what it is and its results are lasting and long term. Thousands of people swear by it, including many people that landscape professionally. So what the heck is this secret?
Before I tell you I want to ask you a question: did you know that a can of tuna has between 15 to 40 grams of protein and an extremely high level of creatine? A can of tuna also contains a healthy serving of essential fatty and amino acids, as well as being great tasting and great for you. Oh, and a can of tuna can tell you exactly how much to water your lawn.
In a temperate climate your lawn needs approximately 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week for optimal growth. Chances are that you are living in a temperate climate- most of Canada (except for the northern regions), and the upper half of the Uniter States all reside in that temperate region. It just so happens that a can of tuna is typically just over 1 inch tall. Combine a can of tuna with your lawn and what do you get? The perfect watering measurement.
Did you know what many homeowners over water their lawn? The result is a soft, plushy lawn (may be considered a good thing) that grows slower and dies faster as opposed to a lawn that gets a healthy amount of water. This type of lawn also is more prone to weeds, crab grass, and insect infestation.
The solution? Put a can of tuna on your lawn and water once a week. Do not stop watering until the can is full and make sure that you follow this method for all the parts of your lawn. Your lawn benefits most when it receives 1 to 1.5 inches of water all in one sitting as opposed to small waterings a few times per week. For maximum benefit water your lawn early in the morning or in the evening to reduce the amount that evaporates from the sun.
Along with keeping your lawn greener and healthier, following the Tuna Can method reduces the amount of water that is wasted and the amount of energy that is consumed. If you are from a region that lacks a large supply of fresh drinking water your neighbors will thank you. If that doesn't motivate you to go and follow the Tuna Can method, then the decreased water bills should.
This is one of those rare circumstances where there is no down side. You literally get to have your tuna and eat it too :)
Spring
means that the garden centers are packed with people, and car trunks
are packed with plants. Everybody has dirt on their knees, dirt
under their nails, and are excited about gardening. To make certain
that this excitement yields positive results, let's discuss the
basics of spring planting.
Installing new plants and having them grow successfully
is not difficult, nor is it as complicated as
some would have you think. Is it as easy as just
digging a hole and setting the plant in? Yes,
it certainly can be. I won't get into bed preparation,
as I have covered that in previous
articles that are still available.
Let's start with B&B plants. B&B is short
for balled in burlap. Closely examine the ball
on the plant that you have purchased. Did the
diggers wrap twine around the ball to hold the
plant secure? If they did, you should at least
cut the twine and lay it in the bottom of the
hole, or remove it completely. Pay close attention
around the stem of the plant where it emerges
from the root ball, as diggers often wrap the
twine around the stem several times as they tie
the ball. This is extremely important because
if the string is nylon, it will not rot and will
girdle and kill the plant two or three years from
now.
When B&B plants are stored in the nursery
for extended periods of time it becomes necessary
to re-burlap them if the bottom starts to rot
before the plants are sold. If the plant that
you buy has been re-burlaped it is possible that
there could be nylon strings between the two layers
of burlap, check the stem carefully. As long as
the nylon string is removed from around the stem
of the plant, it is actually harmless around the
rest of the ball, and you do not have to remove
it.
Is the root ball wrapped in genuine burlap, or
imitation burlap made of a non-biodegradable plastic
material. Genuine burlap will rot quickly underground
and does not have to be disturbed before planting.
If you're not sure or suspect a poly type burlap
you don't have to remove it completely, but should
loosen it around the stem of the plant and cut
some vertical slices around the circumference
of the ball.
Now here's the critical part. What kind of soil
are you planting in? If your soil is heavy clay,
I highly suggest that your raise the planting
bed at least 8” with good rich topsoil. If
you can't do that for some reason, install the
plant so that at least 2” or more of the
root ball is above the existing grade and mound
the soil over the root ball. Keep in mind that
plants installed this way could dry out over the
summer, but planting them flush with the ground
in heavy clay can mean that the roots will be
too wet at other times of the year.
The “experts” suggest that when planting
in clay soil you dig the hole wider and deeper
than the root ball and fill around and under the
plant with loose organic material. That sounds
like a really great idea doesn't it? Some of these
experts also recommend that you dig the hole extra
deep and put a few inches of gravel in the bottom
for drainage. Where do you suppose they think
this water is going to “drain” to?
Keep in mind that most B&B plants are grown
in well drained soil. That means that the soil
in the root ball is porous and water can easily
pass through. Now imagine if you will, a root
ball about 15” in diameter, setting in a
hole 30” diameter. All around and under that
root ball is loose organic matter. Inside of that
root ball is porous soil. Now along comes Mother
Nature with a torrential downpour. There is water
everywhere, and it is not going to soak into that
hard packed clay soil, so it is just flowing across
the top of the ground searching for the lowest
point. When it reaches our newly planted tree
surrounded by loose organic matter, it is going
to seep in until the planting hole is completely
full of water. (Remember my article on getting
rid of standing water and the French drain system?)
By using this planting technique we have actually
created a French drain around our poor little
plant that can not tolerate it's roots being without
oxygen for long periods of time. Because the bottom
of this hole is clay, even though we've added
gravel for drainage, there is nowhere for the
water to go, and this plant is going to suffer
and likely die.
If you can not raise the planting bed with topsoil,
and are planting in clay soil, I recommend that
you install the root ball at least 2” above
grade and backfill around the ball with the soil
that you removed when you dug the hole. Backfilling
with the clay soil that you removed is actually
like building a dam to keep excess water from
permeating the root ball of your newly planted
tree. The plant is not going to thrive in this
poor soil, but at least it will have a chance
to survive.
No matter what kind of soil you have, be careful
not to install your plants too deep. They should
never be planted any deeper than they were grown
in the nursery. Planting too deep is a common
problem, and thousands of plants are killed each
year by gardeners who just don't understand how
critical planting depth is.
Staking newly planted trees is always a good idea.
If your new tree constantly rocks back and forth
when the wind blows it will have a very difficult
time establishing new roots into the existing
soil. Stabilize the tree with a stake. You can
use a wooden stake, a fence post, or for small
trees I often use 1/2” electro magnetic tubing,
(conduit), available at any hardware store. You
can secure the tree to the stake with a single
wrap of duct tape. In about six months or a year
the sun will dry the glue on the duct tape and
it will fall off. Check the tape to make sure
that it has fallen off. You don't want to girdle
the tree with the tape.
Container grown plants are much easier. Follow
the rules for depth of planting as described earlier.
Before gently removing the plant from the container
check the drain holes in the bottom of the container
for roots that might be growing out the holes.
If so cut them off so they will not make it difficult
to get the plant out of the container. The easiest
way to remove the plant from the container is
to place your hand over the top of the container
and turn it completely upside down and give it
a gentle shake. The plant should slide right into
your hand.
Examine the root mass as you hold it in your hand.
Sometimes when plants have been growing in a container
for a long time the roots start to grow in a circular
pattern around the root mass. This is not good,
and you should disturb these roots before planting
so you can break this circular pattern. You can
take a knife and actually make about three vertical
slices from the top of the root mass to the bottom.
This will stimulate new roots that will grow outward
into the soil of your garden. Or you can just
take your fingers and loosen the roots that are
circling the root mass and force them outward
before you plant them.
What about fertilizer, bone meal, peat moss, and
all those other additives they are going to try
and sell you at the garden center? Raise your
planting beds with good rich topsoil and forget
about the additives. Be very careful with fertilizers,
they can do more harm than good. I landscaped
my house 12 years ago and I haven't got around
to fertilizing the plants yet, and have no intention
of doing so. They look great.
As far as bone meal and all those other soil additives
are concerned, don't get too caught up in all
that stuff. The only thing that I know for sure
is that they will make your wallet thinner, but
I don't think you'll see a difference in your
plants.
PRUNING is a VITAL PART of PLANT AND TREE CARE. This task can be confusing so we developed the following guide to help you prune properly.
Three basic tools suffice for most pruning jobs: shears, loppers, and a pruning saw. Keep them sharp for clean cuts; disinfect after pruning diseased material.
Prune in winter or early spring when plants are still dormant. Prune plants to maintain symmetrical bushes and to encourage strong new growth. Cut back all previous years growth as much as one-third its length. Remove branches that cross through center and remove plants understock. Also prune weak and dead stems as needed. This will also encourage strong new growth. Learn the SECRET for growing beautiful roses. Click Here!
The best time to prune crepe myrtles is in February. Prune out twiggy stems and any dead wood. Thin out crossing or crowding branches in the plants center. If tree form, prune lower branches. Prune top to maintain symmetry. Each year after flowering, cut 12 to 18 inches off the tips of branches that have bloomed.
3. When Do Hollies Need To Be Pruned?
Prune in winter or early spring mostly to shape plants. Cut back wayward branches and prune out weak unproductive dead stems as needed.
Butterfly bushes bloom in summer on new spring growth. They can be pruned in late winter or early spring. By pruning old blooms you will encourage new flowers. Also prune out old dead and unproductive branches.
Hydrangeas fall into two groups. Some you prune in early spring and others after the flowers fade.
Early Spring Pruning Hydrangeas bloom on new growth. These plants are Climbing Hydrangea, Annabelle, Grandiflora, and PeeGees.
After-Bloom Pruning Hydrangeas bloom on last years stems. These include Bigleaf Hydrangeas, Oakleaf Hydrangeas, Lacecaps, SummerBeauty, and Nikko Blue. Pruning should be done when the flower has faded. Cut back the flowering stems to the strongest pair of new shoots. As plants mature, begin to thin out the oldest woody stems. Remove crowded crossing, broken, or dead branches.
Clematis can be put in three categories: Spring-flowering, summer-flowering , and twice-flowering.
Spring-blooming Clematis produce flowers on stems that grew during the previous year. Prune when flowers are done blooming. Cut back the flowers that are now dead. Prune out any old dead stems as well.
Summer-blooming Plants bloom on new growth produced in the spring. Cut back stems before new growth begins. Late autumn or early spring is a good time to prune. Cut back about 12 inches of old growth. Each year the vine will grow larger and stronger.
Twice-blooming Plants first bloom in spring on stems produced the previous year. Late summer or fall will be the next bloom time. In late fall or very early spring, prune lightly to thin the stems. After the spring bloom, prune more heavily for more healthy stems to develop for the next bloom. After a second bloom, prune old flowers away.
The most common fruit trees are apple, peach, pear and cherry.
Apple Trees Apple trees should be pruned in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. Always remove all suckers (summer is a great time). Also remove dead and other unproductive branches as needed.
Peach Trees Peach trees are fast growing and need to be pruned in winter. Without pruning the peaches will grow farther away from the tree's center. This will put great strain on the branches, causing them to break. In winter, thin out upward-growing branches that cross in tree's center.
Pear Trees Prune back in early spring. Always prune dead and unproductive branches as needed.
Cherry Trees Prune in winter. Prune out branches that cross in center and dead unproductive branches as needed.
8. When Do Azaleas and Rhododendrons Need To Be Pruned?
They can be pruned in winter or early spring. However pruning at this time will prevent plants from producing many blooms. The best time to prune azaleas and rhododendrons is just after their blooming period in spring. If you prune at this time , no additional pruning will be necessary.
9When Do Junipers Need To Be Pruned?
Junipers need very minimal pruning. They should be pruned to correct their shape, to accent their form, or to limit their size. This should be done during the juniper's growing stages in mid-summer.
10. When Do Flowering Trees Need To Be Pruned?
Flowering trees should be pruned after they have finished blooming. Prune as little as possible. Dead branches, branches that cross in the center, and branches that are unproductive should be pruned out.
The virtual encyclopedia of BONSAI GARDENING plus buyers guide is now available! Check it out.
Create a stunning vegetable garden in your own backyard. Find out how in Frank Rockwell's new publication Home Vegetable Garden Secrets. Natural food stores don't want you to read this one.
Imagine being able to work from your own home, doing a job you love, and
getting paid handsomely for doing it. Wouldn't that be great?
Well, the good news is that this is not just a fantasy. It is a prospect that is
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Of course, the biggest challenge for new freelancers is finding enough work to
justify giving up a day job. How can you be sure that you will keep yourself
busy with lucrative work? This used to be a concern, but thanks to the advent of
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Now there are a number of job sites dedicated to helping freelancers find work
and stay busy. Freelance Work Exchange, for example, brings you hundreds of
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Spring
means that the garden centers are packed with people, and car trunks
are packed with plants. Everybody has dirt on their knees, dirt
under their nails, and are excited about gardening. To make certain
that this excitement yields positive results, let's discuss the
basics of spring planting.
